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Wonderful Winter Weekend Getaways
Park City, Telluride and more...
Story and Photos By Ron Stern

Park City, Utah is a perfect mountain getaway, one that offers great skiing, dining, shopping, and a variety of outdoor diversions. Only a short one-hour flight from Denver, Park City is located in Summit County, 35 minutes east of Salt Lake City International Airport.

The discovery of silver in 1868 there sparked an influx of miners. Those same miners and their families built Park City around this precious metal. With more than $400 million in silver pulled from the surrounding hills, Park City created no less than 23 millionaires in its heyday including George Hearst, the father of William Randolph Hearst.

Park City has three top ski resorts: The Canyons, Park City and Deer Valley. These are all serviced by modern conveyances offering scenic and convenient ways to get to the top. In the early days, however, things were not quite so easy. In 1965 skiers took a torturous and not-so-safe 1,750-foot ride jut to get to the top. A mine train took skiers into the Silver King Mine Tunnel via a modified trolley that was pulled two and a half miles up through the pitch dark Spiro Tunnel. From there skiers took an old shaft elevator to the surface. This was quite an ordeal and not for the faint of heart.

Couple on a Ski Lift

Each of the resorts has its own charm and appeal with year-round fun for the entire family. Park City now has a chair lift that will take you to the summit of Bald Mountain for skiing in the winter or hiking or biking in the summer. There are more than 325 miles of trails there. There is also horseback riding and the 2,300-foot long ZipRider™, the world’s longest zipline with speeds of up to 60 miles per hour.

Park City is also a shopper’s paradise and my wife, Nancy, and I spent many leisurely hours browsing the shops and galleries. There are delightful respites, coffee houses and restaurants on Main Street. I stopped by the Java Cow and Bakery—one of the locals’ favorites—on more than one occasion for ice cream and people watching.

The winter months layer the resorts with an average of 350 inches of powdery snow—heaven on earth for outdoor enthusiasts. The combined three resorts boast 57 ski lifts and more than 9,000 total skiable acres.

Each of the resorts offers lessons for novices and experienced skiers and snowboarders. With more than 350 runs, ranging from gentle slopes to moguls and chutes, there is truly something for everyone here.

Terrain parks are another popular hotspot where snowboarders and skiers can learn to rip up the mountain at four locations. Don’t be surprised if you see some world-class athletes there during the skiing season.

Athletes at Olympic Park in Park City

Park City played host to the 2002 Winter Olympics, considered by many to be the best run and most successful in history. Today, you can still share in this excitement at the Utah Olympic Park. This was the site of the bobsled, luge and ski jumping competitions. In fact, ski jumping started in Park City in 1930 on Ecker Hill. In 1931 Alf Engen set a world record there by jumping 247 feet and then went on to claim five other world records.

The park is open during the winter for tours where you can feel the same thrills as an Olympian on “The Comet” bobsled ride. After being strapped into position, your driver will take you on an a nail biting adventure where, in under a minute, you will reach speeds of up to 80 miles per hour and feel your face tightening with five G’s of force.

Snowshoeing, cross country skiing, snowmobiling, sleigh rides and tubing at nearby Gorgoza Park are also available. You can also enjoy ice skating at the newly opened 46,000-square-foot Quinn Recreation Complex, which features an Olympic-size ice sheet. Young and old can take lessons in ice hockey and figure skating or just enjoy a leisurely spin around the rink.

There are many dining options in Park City. Shabu on Main Street is my recommendation for excellent Asian cuisine. This “freestyle” cuisine as its called, offers a blend of favorite Asian delicacies to create a blend of exotic flavors. Two ski-loving brothers run this establishment; hence, the restaurant is only open in the evenings. For appetizers try the firecracker shrimp and dim sum, usually dumplings wrapped around mashed sweet black beans, barbeque pork or shrimp or a tiny flavorful tidbit, all served in a bamboo wicker basket. If your palate seeks other tastes then choose from more than 100 cafés and restaurants that dot Park City.

For a truly unforgettable experience, try the fireside dining at Empire Lodge at Deer Valley Resort. Four courses are served in front of massive stone fireplaces. Hot-melted Swiss raclette cheese; stews made with veal, chicken and mushrooms; leg of lamb brushed with fresh herbs are some of the more notable entrees. Caramel, white chocolate and Grand Marnier fondue desserts end the evening on an even sweeter note.

I had always heard about the famous Sundance Film Festival, founded by Robert Redford, but never realized it was held every January in Park City. Many of the films screened at the festival are shown outdoors at the municipal park in July and August under the summer stars.

With more than 6,000 rooms, Park City visitors will find a variety of accommodations ranging from hotels, bed and breakfasts, condominiums and private rentals. Nancy and I stayed at the scrumptious Silver Queen Hotel, just steps away from Main Street and the Mountain Resort Town lift. The owner has created a luxurious respite with upscale services and themed rooms adorned in mountain, Asian, whimsical and urban motifs.

Park City is easily accessible from the Front Range and you can be on the slopes and breathing fresh, mountain air in just a couple of hours. Many families love the area so much that they make it an annual event.

Telluride

Families looking for a weekend getaway or a fun-filled vacation will find more than they expected at Telluride and its close neighbor, Mountain Village. Located in the rugged San Juan Mountains about 7 hours from Denver, Telluride is best known for winter skiing and a host of summer and fall activities such as hot air ballooning, biking, hiking, jazz festivals and historical tours.

At 8,750 feet, Telluride is a throwback to an earlier era where the stout of heart dug for precious metals and tried to carve out a living. Butch Cassidy robbed his first bank there at the San Miguel Valley Bank on June 24, 1889. He and three of his companions made off with more than $20,000. The money was never recovered.

The origin of the town’s name is also a subject of some speculation. Some believe that it was derived from tellurium, en element sometimes found in gold deposits, although none was ever found in the Telluride. Others say that that the identity came from the send off phrase, “to Hell you ride,” given to miners seeking their fortune in the San Juan Mountains. Whichever story you prefer, Telluride is one rich place to visit for a romantic getaway or long holiday weekend.

Situated snugly in a canyon, Telluride is surrounded by majestic 13,000-foot mountain peaks, the largest concentration of Fourteeners (14,000-foot peaks) in North America, Even though the entire town is just six blocks wide and twelve long, it is picture perfect with a colorful palate of Victorian style homes, storefronts with clapboard siding typical of New England architecture. Historic buildings, art galleries and an eclectic blend of cafes, restaurants and bistros just add to the overall ambiance.

Skiing is, of course, one of the main attractions in winter and the Telluride Ski Resort accommodates all levels of skiers. With 1,700 skiable acres and 84 trails, beginners will feel as comfortable here as the experts. There is even an innovative adaptive sports program that assists those with disabilities, including guiding techniques for sight-impaired skiers.

Kids will love the ride, slide and glide program at Thrill Hill located at the base of Lift 2 in neighboring Mountain Village. This is an outdoor activity for everyone including tubing on one of its gentler slopes.

Local suppliers and outfitters make sure you can partake in any number of snowy activities during your stay. Backcountry skiing, ice climbing, snowmobiling, winter hut trips, snowshoeing and even dog sledding are only a few of the many options.

For the adventurous skiers and snowboarders, Telluride happens to be the only place in Colorado where you can book a heli-ski trip. Contrary to popular believe, this is not just for the extreme sportsman and is more about frolicking in deep, untracked powder amidst some of the most spectacular scenery in North America. In case you are wondering about safety, not to worry. Locally owned and operated Helitrax claims that in twenty-three years of operation they have never had a guest caught in an avalanche.

Mother, Daughter and Duck

This was the first visit for Nancy and me, but certainly not the last. We stayed at The Mountain Lodge in Mountain Village. A free gondola ride connects the two communities and provides spectacular views during the 13-minute trip. Mountain Lodge, managed by Destination Hotels and Resorts are individually owned vacation condominiums rented to the public during various seasons. The property owners offer a kid- and adult-friendly pool, a fitness center, shuttle service, and beautifully adorned rooms with fireplaces and kitchens so families can share a home-cooked meal.

Hotels, condominiums, bed and breakfasts, vacation rentals and private homes are also available in Telluride and Mountain Village. You can find access to all these on the tourism boards website. (see box below)

The New Sheridan Hotel has been a fixture since 1895 and their Chop House restaurant is a must for hungry travelers. Hot sourdough bread, steaks and seafood are offered along with excellent service. Likewise, Rustico Ristorante provides true Italian cuisine matched with a vast selection of wines for adults and pizza for the kids. Nancy and I loved the food, enjoyed the ambiance and appreciated the friendliness of the staff.

When you aren’t shushing down the slopes, spend some time browsing the retails shops nearby. You can find books, jewelry, antiques, fine and casual clothing, glass and pottery, sporting goods and more. When you are done you can take the gondola to Alpine-style Mountain Village and enjoy a relaxing massage or body treatment at The Peaks Resort & Golden Door Spa, a luxury 177 room hotel with a 42,000-square-foot spa.

While the early miners came to the mountains of Park City and Telluride in search of gold and silver, you and your family will find modern treasures and winter activities in these two cities on your next weekend getaway.

Telluride

The only free gondola public transportation system in North America is located here and can take you from Mountain Village to Telluride in about 13 minutes. (It runs from 7 a.m. until midnight).

Telluride Regional Airport is the highest commercial airport in North America with an altitude of 9,078 feet above sea level.

The oldest bus in town, The Galloping Goose, bus #101, operates on biodegradable vegetable-oil-based biodiesel fuel.

You won’t find Wendy’s, Starbucks or MacDonald’s here. No chains are allowed in the city.

Locals claim that there are more dogs here than people with their own “puppy parking” spots. Your pooch has a 30 minute time limit.

At 365 feet Bridal Veil Falls, on the east side of Telluride, is the tallest free-falling waterfall in Colorado.

Ski Magazine rated Telluride in the Top 10 ski resorts in North America.

Resources:

Park City
www.parkcityinfo.com

The Canyons
www.thecanyons.com

Deer Valley
www.deervalley.com

Olympic Park
www.olyparks.com

Silver Queen Hotel
www.Silverqueenhotel.com

Fireside Dining at Empire Lodge
www.deervalley.com
(Follow dining links to “fireside dining”)
Open Wednesday, Thursday and Friday evenings from 6 to 9 p.m

Telluride
www.VisitTelluride.com

Mountain Lodge and Destination Hotels and Resorts
www.destinationhotels.com

The Peaks Resort and Golden Door Spa
www.thepeaksresort.com

New Sheridan Hotel
www.newsheridan.com

Rustico Ristorante
www.rusticoristorante.com