What? You’re going where? That was the typical reaction from well meaning friends and family members who learned that I was headed to Jordan. Why, they wondered, would I go there given all the unrest in the Middle East? Good question.
The Jordanian people, as I discovered, are friendly and easygoing. The most common greeting I received was Welcome to Jordan or Ahlan Wa Sahlan. Resort bookings are at an all time high as millions flock to this land in search of lavish accommodations, wellness spas, healing waters, and the many historical sites that date from the time of Moses and the biblical prophets.
Even though no part of the world is immune from terrorism, considering the numbers of people that visit this country, it is remarkably safe. Up until very recently, they never really had a serious “incident” and Jordan is a strong partner with the United States and Israel in the global war on terror. Signs of beefed up security are everywhere and give the appearance of a king (King Abullah) and country serious about protecting its visitors.
Jerash
The first stop on my itinerary was Jerash, one of the best-preserved examples of Roman architecture in the world outside of Italy. Located 43 kilometers north of the capital of Amman, Jerash has been occupied for more than 6,500 years dating from Neolithic Age.
I walked past the Roman emperor Hadrian’s Arch (built in 129 AD) and entered the South Gate to the Oval Plaza. Ionic columns surround this area with two altars in the center and provide a nice spot for a few photos.
It takes almost three hours to see Jerash, including its colonnade streets, temples, churches, baths, and outdoor theatres. One of the highlights is the massive Hippodrome where, in ancient times, some 15,000 spectators watched chariot races and gladiator fights. Today, these scenes have been recreated and you can see charioteers racing against each other and Roman legions in full costume performing fighting maneuvers that made them the most feared army in the world.
The Dead Sea
Believed to be the site of five biblical cities: Sodom; Gomorah; Admah; Zeboiim; and Zoar; the Dead Sea, the lowest spot on earth, is now home to luxurious resorts and spas. I stayed at the Swiss-owned Movënpick Resort and Spa, and from my room, I could see beyond the waters of the sea all the way to Jericho and the mountains of Israel.
The high mineral content of the Dead Sea makes it impossible for a person to sink. Each day, people head to the waters to float on their backs and take in some sun, whose UV rays are less dangerous owing to the filtering effect of the evaporation constantly occurring and creating a mist that rises up from the water.
Another favorite thing to do here is to take some of the mineral rich mud that is collected from the sea and slather it all over the body. Not one to miss a local custom, I scooped out some of the gooey, black mud from an urn on the beach and covered myself from head to toe. After letting it dry in the sun and then washing it off, my skin was silky and soft. It is believed that the waters and mud have healing properties and people with all sorts of skin afflictions such as psoriasis come here to gain relief. Some stay for weeks and swear by the healing power of the minerals.
The Lost City of Petra
The Nabataeans, an advanced civilization widely known in the region for their architecture and system of water canals, built Petra more than 2,000 years ago. By the 16th century, though, Petra slipped into obscurity for another 300 years until it was rediscovered in 1812 by a Swiss explorer.
My own previous knowledge of Petra was the temple known as the Treasury from one of the Indiana Jones movies. After walking through a narrow canyon known as the Siq, the Treasury appeared before me. It is a huge structure carved directly out of the red-hued sandstone. This, I was told, was just the beginning of Petra. This ancient city extends for miles past empty tombs, an amphitheater, and a large restaurant, and culminates with over 900 steps leading up to the Monastery, the largest structure in Petra.
While it is quite a hike up to the top, I saw young and old coming and going. Winded but reaching the top, I was treated to a massive first century monastery which afforded me another great photo opportunity.
The Wadi Rum
Lawrence of Arabia author T.E. Lawrence once described the Wadi Rum as vast, echoing and God-like. This is an apt description as the area is immense and comprised mostly of rose-colored sand, towering mountains, camels, Bedouins, and winding canyons.
Centuries ago, merchants bringing silk and spices would cross this barren desert on their way from eastern India to Aqaba or other ports. Today, camels and 4WD vehicles are the main means of transportation and intrepid explorers can spend all day walking among sandstone canyons, hiking or just taking in the vast scenery. As our caravan of vehicles stopped, we were encouraged to walk away from the trucks and each other to truly experience the Wadi Rum. I stood silently and the only sound I could hear was the gentle breeze and my own breathing. I suppose we are all used to a certain level of noise in our lives, but here, things are uncomplicated and uncluttered and there is time for quiet reflection.
Bethany Beyond the Jordan and Mount Nebo
Just opposite Jericho, the area the Bible calls Bethany beyond the Jordan has profound religious significance. Recent archeological evidence suggests that this is the place where John the Baptist lived and also where he baptized Jesus. Another area, Elijah’s Hill, is believed to be where the prophet Elijah ascended to heaven.
One of the most sacred sites in Jordan, Mt. Nebo is the location where Moses was allowed to see the Promised Land. The Old Testament records that his body was buried at an undisclosed spot somewhere on the mountain. Tour groups bring thousands to the summit of Mt. Nebo where a Byzantine church commemorates the life of Moses.
Aqaba and the Red Sea
At Jordan’s southern border, the city of Aqaba sits on the edge of the Red Sea and is a sunny playground for vacation goers. A favorable climate, diverse marine life and an abundance of water sports make this an ideal place to end your visit to Jordan. Aboard a chartered boat, I toured the harbor that borders Israel and Saudi Arabia and took a dip in the cool, clear waters that mark the southern boundary of Jordan.
This is a land that is as diverse in terrain as it is rich in history. As more travelers discover this oasis of tranquility in the Middle East, they too will see why so many return each year. The rich heritage of Jordan’s past still echoes in its canyons, its communities and in the hearts of its people.