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Mazatlan
Pearl of the Pacific
Story and Photos By Nancy & Ron Stern

If you have ever dreamed about a sun-drenched affordable vacation where you can just relax and forget about your cares, then Mazatlan is the place for you. Known as “The Pearl of the Pacific” for its friendly people, island strewn harbors, and unspoiled beaches, Mazatlan is home to one the largest West Coast ports between Los Angeles and the Panama Canal. Situated within the Mexican state of Sinaloa, Mazatlan offers the intrepid traveler all the pleasures of a beach resort as well as a taste of old world historic Mexico.

Located on the Pacific Ocean and at about the same latitude as Hawaii, Mazatlan enjoys a temperate climate most of the year with the water temperatures rarely going below 68 degrees. Being a popular cruise ship port, this city attracts many who love to shop for bargains in gold and silver jewelry, hang out at Señor Frog’s dancing the night away, or just lounge by the pool in one of Mazatlan’s top hotels.

Panama Bakery

Here you can mingle with the locals and enjoy fresh coconuts with lime juice and hot sauce, eat jumbo-sized shrimp in what has been called “the shrimp capital of the world,” or stop by the popular Panama Bakery for one of their many delectable pastries such as Copacabana Cake made with fresh pineapple and coconut. One of my favorite things to do was eat fresh grilled red snapper with beans and hot tortillas right on the ocean at La Puntilla’s restaurant. Mazatlan even has its own brand of vanilla coke called Toni Col and on a hot day, it is just the thing to go with the many spicy flavors of Mexico.

Where to Stay

Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan

Mazatlan has a variety of hotels to choose from with prices running the gamut between downright cheap to expensive. We chose to stay at the two five-star Pueblo Bonito Hotels: Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan and the new Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay. These upscale properties were developed by the visionary entrepreneur Ernesto Coppel Kelly who, in his own way, is rivaling many of the top hotel chains. Mr. Coppel also has three other properties located in Cabo San Lucas.

Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan

Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan

Located in the popular Zona Dorado (Golden Zone), the Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan reflects the beauty and charm of early Mexico. The décor is reminiscent of a Mexican pueblo with wrought iron chandeliers, arched wooden walkways, tile floors, and paintings of historic Mexican scenes.

Each of the rooms affords a breathtaking view of the Pacific Ocean and one of two pools. Each night I listened to the gentle lapping of the waves, which was all I needed to lull me to sleep. Each of their 246 suites comes with its own kitchenette, private balcony, satellite television, air conditioning, and daily maid service.

There are three restaurants that offer a variety of foods to suit every taste at the hotel. Las Alas De Las Palomes serves Mexican cuisine either indoors or on the lovely terrace. Each morning, my wife and I would eat breakfast on the terrace, taking in the fresh sea air. On Sundays, a large buffet is served including traditional Mexican dishes such as machaca and tamales as well as eggs, bacon, mangos, papayas, and of course, mouth-watering cakes and pastries.

Cilantros is a terrace-style restaurant that serves seafood and international cuisine. The windows open right on to the beach and offer gorgeous views of the ocean and sunsets. All of the food was fantastic, and I recommend the shrimp with artichoke dinner. For dessert, try the coffee-chocolate mousse. This was cold, rich, and creamy and so good I had to return for a late night snack.

Banana Flambe

Angelo’s Gourmet Restaurant boasts some of the best Italian cuisine in Mazatlan. Signature dishes include cioppino, ossobucco, and gamberoni alla Luciana. All of these are served in an intimate setting, and there is even a male vocalist to serenade you with songs that add to the romantic atmosphere.

Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan offers many water activities including sea kayaking, jet skiing, and parasailing, and they can also arrange a variety of different tours. They have many affordable suites from junior all the way up to their executive presidential suite.

Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay

The Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay is one of the newest resorts in Mazatlan and also one of the most beautiful. Located on 20 acres in an area called Nuevo Mazatlan (New Mazatlan), it is only a 12-minute ride from Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan but worlds apart. This tranquil property is far from the crowds of the Golden Zone and is perfect for anyone looking for tranquility, open space, and total relaxation.

Veranda at Emerald Bay

Like the city of Mazatlan itself, which is a mixture of old and new, Emerald Bay incorporates both styles in its elegant architecture. The front entrance is lined with palm trees and tropical foliage, and you can immediately tell that you are in for a special experience. A concrete fountain is located in the middle of a circular lobby underneath a white dome. A strong neo-classical style is merged with design elements from old Mexico. I couldn’t help notice small details like tile, granite, wrought iron, and colorful works of art that were blended with more modern construction materials. There was also a large aquarium behind the reservation desk that served as a beautiful backdrop of local marine life.

Master Suite at Emerald Bay

Currently there are 78 fully-equipped suites with more on the way in new phases. A total of 258 are planned, all with breathtaking views of the Pacific. The colors chosen for this resort also added to its soothing allure. Pale pastel yellows, white, and various shades of blue and turquoise made me feel that I was in the middle of a Thomas McKnight painting.

Black Swans at Emerald Bay

The grounds are impeccably landscaped with tropical plants, fountains, waterfalls, and a pool with a swim-up bar. They have also brought in rare black swans, white swans, and two types of flamingos. Along the way, two other birds wandered on to the property— whistler ducks. What is quite unusual is that one of these ducks, nicknamed Simon after “Simple Simon,” acts like either the swans or the flamingos, depending upon whom he is around at the time. I was told that he can often be seen hanging around the flamingos and standing on one leg!

Simon the Confused Duck at Emerald Bay

Even though Emerald Bay is somewhat isolated, they have most everything you will need, including a couple of small stores, a spa and a fitness center. The staff make you feel that you are one of their family and each person seems genuinely willing to provide for your every need.

For relaxing, one can have a drink or watch television at Kelly’s Piano Bar, which is located in the main lobby. Kelly’s is designed to look like a hunting lodge with rich dark woods, hunting trophies, and handcrafted furniture.

Some of the finest dining in the entire city can be found at La Cordeliere. Serving fresh seafood and international cuisine, La Cordeliere offers a gourmet touch to all of their dishes. Even the desserts were served with special touches that are hallmarks of a truly great chef. What’s even better is that you can have breakfast, lunch, or dinner right on the veranda overlooking the ocean. One night, as we lingered over our coffee and tres leches (dessert made with cake and three types of milk), we saw a stunning sunset with the clouds turning from bright orange to burnt orange to a crimson red. This was nature’s colorful exclamation point to a perfect dining experience.

Emerald Bay is first and foremost a fine hotel, but if you have ever dreamed about owning a little piece of paradise, some of its units are available for vacation ownership. Emerald Bay is part of the RCI network and a “grand tourism” property (better than five-star) so these are at a premium.

Seeing the Sights

At first glance, Mazatlan may seem like it is little more than hotels and tourist shops. There is, however, much more to be seen and experienced in this city of 750,000.

The area to the south of the Golden Zone includes a five-mile beach boardwalk called the Malecon. Here you can find locals basking in the sun, surfing, and eating at one of the many sidewalk vendors. There are many monuments along the way, including one dedicated to the “Continuity of Life.” This bronze sculpture depicts people and dolphins together, showing the interconnectedness of all things.

Closer to the downtown area you can find one of the best aquariums (Acuario Mazatlan) in Latin America. They have over 50 tanks featuring colorful local marine life as well as several nice outdoor exhibits. There are regular sea lion shows and bird shows that are well worth the visit.

The Museo Casa Machado

Just a little further south is a 20-block area known as the historic district. The Museo Casa Machado was a colonial era mansion turned museum and gives you a glimpse of what early life was like in this part of the Mexican state. A couple of blocks nearby, the twin-peaked Catholic cathedral (left) looms above the local square and serves as a gathering point for families on Sunday. This magnificent structure was recently rehabilitated as are many of the other colorful buildings in this area. Much like a huge picnic area, you will see local vendors selling their wares, kids eating flavorful helado (ice cream) and tourists snapping photographs of all the activity.

Getting around Mazatlan is a very easy proposition. Taxis are plentiful as are buses and the ever-popular pulmonias (below). These are open-air converted VW’s that look like golf-carts. They are named after the American word for pneumonia because this is what you could get after riding around in one in the wintertime during a rainstorm.

Vista Tours

Another way to explore Mazatlan is to take a tour. There are many tour operators but Vista Tours is one of the largest and has a good fleet of vehicles. There are tours for the city, country, and specialized expeditions such as the Tequila Tour. This six-hour event will take you to the hills close to the Sierra Madre Mountains where you can see how life still exists in a small closely-knit community. The town of El Noria is a self-sufficient throwback into time. Working with only primitive tools, families work to provide food and services for each other as well as some items for export. We saw one group making sandals out of leather straps and old tires while another family made beautiful saddles out of mango trees and other materials that are prized by riders all over Mexico.

The tequila farm is another enterprise that takes immature agave plants and turns them into this popular national drink. This isn’t as easy as it might seem. It takes growers about eight years to grow the agave plant and another two years to properly store and ferment the beverage. The result is a smooth-tasting drink that surpasses all expectations. This is the only plant that produces this kind of tequila as most of the products on the market contain a bitter tasting plant known as mescal. Of course you can sample the product at the end of your tour and take home a bottle or two as gifts.

Shopping in Mazatlan

Shopping is also high on the list of most tourists. You can find almost anything you can imagine from the cheesy purses made from bullfrogs to the more popular gold and silver jewelry. Of particular note, is Pardo Jewelers who has one of the largest selections of Mexican fire opals anywhere in the world. These stones are so named for their ability to reflect many different colors including blue, green, purple, orange, and red. Incredibly difficult to mine, these stones can be turned into a ring, necklace, or earrings in as little as seven hours by Pardo’s master jewelers. Pardo’s is a recommended stop on Carnival Cruise Lines who has an entire video that they show on-board dedicated to the Mexican fire opal.

Many Americans now call Mazatlan their home. There are several large enclaves around town, including the El Cid Mega Resort, that offer security, leisure activities such as golf, and a chance to live near the ocean. The city has enough 20th Century influences to attract people from other countries (both Sam’s Club and Office Depot are here) but it still retains its historic roots. The people of Mazatlan are friendly and quite proud of their city and its culture. If you do come for a visit, spend some time getting to know the people and their heritage. You will come away with a renewed sense of why Mazatlan is called “The Pearl of the Pacific.”

Resources:

Pueblo Bonito Hotels
www.pueblobonito.com
U.S. Sales office 800-990-8250

Vista Tours
www.vistatours.com.mx

Pardo Jewelers
www.pardojewelers.com