It has been a long time since Nancy and I have visited Florida. So at the invitation of the Lee Island Convention and Visitor’s Bureau, we decided to explore this little slice of Florida. What we discovered was a sun-kissed area filled with islands, beaches, nature preserves, and fabulous food and lodging locations, known mostly to locals, that will delight the imagination and palate.
We started our trip by flying Frontier Airlines that recently opened a new direct route to Ft. Myers, Florida from its main hub in Denver. While we mentally prepared for the typical seat crunch and in-flight meal service of peanuts, we were pleasantly surprised by just the opposite. On longer flights Frontier serves a meal that was better than most we have had. Mine was a chicken wrap with raisins and coconut and was quite satisfying. Frontier has also added some airbuses to their fleet complete with behind the seats Direct TV. This made our flight go by fast and only cost $5 for the personal earphones that we got to take home.
We arrived at the Southwest Florida International Airport in Ft. Myers which was centrally located a short distance from other interesting locales including Cape Coral, Pine Island, Sanibel Island, and Captiva Island. Since we only had three days to explore, we decided to check out some of the highlights that each area had to offer.
Ft. Meyers
Established as an army post in 1850, Ft. Myers is also known as the City of Palms. This title was given due to the direct influence of Thomas Edison who lined 15 miles of MacGregor Blvd with royal palms from Cuba at the turn of the century. Not surprisingly, the Edison & Ford Winter Estates are also located on this main thoroughfare and should not be missed. Guided tours take you back in time while providing a glimpse into the minds of these two genius inventors. The Edison 14 acre grounds in particular contain a collection of trees and foliage from all over the world. The Banyan Tree is one of the first things you see on the estate and was given to Edison by Henry Firestone in 1925. It is truly an amazing sight, looking like an entire forest but it is actually only one tree with a trunk span of over 400 feet.
Henry Ford also had his winter home next to Edison’s and there is a nice collection of classic early Ford cars in a makeshift garage. Our tour guide told us that a young Ford once asked Edison about an idea Ford had on starting an assembly line for cars. Edison told him that he thought it was a good idea and for Ford to go back and “do that.” The rest is of course history.
In addition to the lavishly landscaped grounds, there is a wonderful laboratory and museum dedicated to Thomas Edison on the property. Many of Edison’s inventions including the phonograph, the printing telegraph, and electric lamp are on display along with many of his other innovative creations. As Edison himself put it, “I find out what the world needs. Then I go ahead and try to invent it.”
For a fun evening out, try the Broadway Palm Theater. The night we visited, they were putting on a production of Annie Get Your Gun but they have done over 70 musical productions since their opening and entertained more than 1,250,000 guests.
The first thing we noticed was how big the theater was, about twice as big as the one back home. Dining was buffet style with a good selection of hot entrees and a great dessert cart. We both enjoyed the performance and vowed we would return if we were in the area again. Prices at the Broadway Palm start at $19 for children and run through $42 for a Sunday evening show.
Just a short ride from town in the city of North Ft. Meyers you can visit the popular Shell Factory and Nature Park. Here you will find yourself surrounded by every type and size of seashell that you can imagine. In fact, there are over 5,000,000 on display so you won’t be bored. Some are made into ornaments and jewelry and others are just for sheer delight. They also have an amazing variety of coral that I thought would be a great decor if I could ever afford that cottage by the beach. In case shells don’t happen to be your thing then you can visit the glass factory, petting zoo or other concessions that are all located on the property.
Cape Coral
Just across the river from Ft. Myers is the largest of the coast’s cities, Cape Coral. While mostly a residential community, it does have much to offer including a water park, the Cape Coral Historical Museum, shopping, golf, and lots of great beaches. In fact, we were surprised to learn that Lee County has more shoreline than the state of Rhode Island.
Another interesting feature is that like Venice, Italy, Cape Coral is home to a myriad of beautiful canals. This allows many local residents to live on the water and provides access to a variety of water sports and boating.
Pine Island
As we ventured west from Cape Coral towards Pine Island, the landscape slowly changed from business and residential buildings to mangrove trees, beach cottages, and fishing boats traversing the local waterways. At the tip of Pine Island lies the lovely Tarpon Lodge. If you’ve ever wondered what Florida used to be like before high rises and theme parks invaded its shores, then this is the place to visit.
The Tarpon Lodge on Pine Island Sound has a total of 21 units and is listed in the registry of historic places. The rooms are modest but most people come for the simplicity of what the state used to be like. There is also an on-sight restaurant that the Ft. Myers News Press has rated four stars. We tried a local favorite, grouper sandwich and some clam chowder. Both were great and filled us up enough so that we didn’t want dinner.
The grounds of the Tarpon Inn are immaculately landscaped all the way down to the water. Two his and her boat houses on the property were a relic of a by-gone era when husband and wife had their own boats and skippers as a way of each preserving their independence. Still there is something relaxing to the soul about being in a slower paced environment. I think Robert Wells Jr., the general manager summed it up the best, “People come here to get away from the hustle and bustle of life. They come for some of the best fishing anywhere. We have great food, a laid back atmosphere, and great sunsets.” Prices for a room at the Tarpon Inn run between $110-189 per night.
Sanibel Island
One thing we noticed is that each of the islands in this part of Florida has its own particular feel. Sanibel Island reminded me of Santa Barbara with its neatly kept homes, quaint shops and great weather. Nancy and I arrived on the island one sleepy Sunday morning and were both hungry for breakfast. Our Lee Island Guide book told about a secret local restaurant with great pancakes so we decided to investigate.
The sign on the Lighthouse Café said “The World’s Best Breakfast.” Yeah right, I’ve heard that one before. The owner, Michael Billheimer, a man with an infectious smile who obviously took great pride in his establishment, cheerfully greeted us.. The walls were adorned with, what else, pictures of lighthouses, a personal favorite of Mr. Bellheimer. As we waited for our food I watched as dozens of locals came in, kissing and hugging Mike like a close member of their own family.
Well, this is a little unusual for a restaurant we mused but the food will tell the tale. We ordered the malted mango pancakes with eggs, grits and bacon. I told you we were hungry. What can I say? The slogan was accurate. This was truly one of the best breakfasts we have ever had. Even though the pancakes were large, they were soft and light. The bacon was thick with just a little bit of fat and the grits were outstanding.
We discovered that the Lighthouse Café has had its share of magazine write-ups and its reputation is world-renowned. Mr. Billheimer told us a story of an American customer on vacation in Switzerland wearing a Lighthouse Café T-shirt. He ran into a banker in the Swiss Alps and when the banker saw the t-shirt he pointed to his shirt and exclaimed in hearty agreement, “Lighthouse Café…world’s best breakfast.” I was only sorry our schedule would not allow us to come back for lunch. The Lighthouse Café is located 362 Periwinkle Way (I just love that name) on the southern tip of Sanibel Island and they are open for breakfast and lunch.
Next on our list of things to do was the J.N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge. Established in 1945 this 6,300-acre refuge was named in honor of renowned conservationist Jay Norwood “Ding” Darling. Created to protect the unique wildlife of the area, the refuge is home to over 170 species of birds.
We took a tram tour courtesy of Tarpon Bay Explorers. The open bus allowed us to see the wildlife up close and didn’t hinder my ability to take photographs along the way. Lined by Mangroves, these tangled root trees are very important as a source of food for fish and are an integral part of the ecosystem in this area. They are also part of the largest undeveloped mangrove ecosystems in the United States.
Not far from our bus, which did make periodic stops, we saw pelicans, Blue Herons, Tri-Colored Herons, Red Spoonbills, Osprey’s and even crocodiles lounging in the sun. If you are a nature lover, then this area is a must-see. Bring your binoculars to get the best look.
Not far from the refuge is the Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum. This is quite a unique museum having the distinction of being the only one in the United States devoted exclusively to shells of the world. Shelling is a popular pastime on Sanibel and there are over 200 species to be found on the local beaches. Nancy nicknamed these intricate and colorful works of art the flowers of the sea.
Other exhibits in the museum include Gifts from the seas of Sanibel and Captiva, Kingdom of the Landshells, Shells in Tribal Art, Southwest Florida Fossil Shells, The Scallop and Sailor’s Valentines. Kids will also love the many interactive displays.
After all this sightseeing we were ready to check into the fabulous South Seas Resort. This full-service property has everything you can imagine by way of upscale accommodations and fun activities. Here you can play golf or tennis, learn to sail, rent a kayak, or just lounge by the pool.
This resort is so big that shuttle buses have to take you from one end to the other. We stayed at the Harobourside Hotel Rooms that overlooked Pine Island Sound. We both agreed that there is nothing better than having a beach outside your door and being lulled to sleep by the sound of gentle waves coming ashore.
There are seven restaurants on the grounds and you can choose between simple fare or an elegant meal. Several small mini-marts also have a good selection of groceries and many gourmet items—just the thing for that picnic by the water.
While you will have a good selection of activities to choose from at South Seas, we opted for the popular day trip to Cabbage Key via Captiva Cruises. We boarded the Lady Chadwick right near our hotel room and listened as a knowledgeable guide educated us about the local history, aquatic life and the delicate eco system that maintains the pristine quality of the area.
The Chadwick dropped us off at Cabbage Key for lunch at the only restaurant on the island. Now in terms of “different” this place has a life of its own. Once you step inside you will see why. Everything from the walls to the ceiling is covered in one-dollar bills. In fact, except for the floor and windows, you can’t find a smidgeon of empty space anywhere. We learned that years ago, fishermen would write their names on dollar bills and tape it to the wall so that they would have money for a beer next time they came in. The tradition stuck and now everybody who visits writes some sort of message across George Washington’s face to make a contribution. I saw signatures from John Kennedy Jr. and even a little picture of Homer Simpson by the illustrator of the cartoon series.
We were fortunate to arrive on a “slow” day as we were told that during high season there is a two-hour wait for a cheeseburger. A cheeseburger, I thought? Yep. As it turns out they have a great little cheeseburger that has come to be something of a legend. Nothing fancy, just a good burger. In fact, the story goes that Jimmy Buffet wrote his famous song A Cheeseburger in Paradise about the one he got from Cabbage Key.
After lunch we took a stroll on their nature trail and caught a glimpse of the local foliage and wildlife. When you are done and awaiting the Lady Chadwick to return you can relax on a chair overlooking the harbor and keep your eyes out for dolphins that inhabit the sound.
Nancy and I were hoping to see some dolphins up close and on our way back to the South Seas Resort we weren’t disappointed. Just off the stern a whole family of them were literally surfing in the wake of the boat. To our amazement, they performed quite a show, jumping and twisting out of the water as if they were in some sort of water ballet. This was truly an experience that everyone should be able to enjoy once in his or her lifetime.
While our time was running out in SW Florida, a local told us that we shouldn’t leave without eating at the famous Bubble Room. Located a few hundred yards from the resort, we quickly learned why it was so named. The inside is a madhouse of eclectic Christmas and Hollywood memorabilia including chandeliers that were adorned with bubble lights that were so popular in the 1950’s. Servers are dressed up like and girl and boy scouts and are called “bubble scouts” and the entire place has a colorful charm that everyone will love. There is even an original old-time Macy’s window display that fills an entire room.
Then there’s the food. Oh my God. As if the portions aren’t large enough, the fare is mouth watering. Our scout brought us a basket of their famous bubble bread that came hot and crusty and loaded with some sort of cheesy topping. For the entrees I tried the Grouper that was cooked in a paper bag and coated with brown sugar. Nancy had the lasagna prepared with spinach, zucchini, basil, 3 cheeses and cream sauce. Both were delicious. One word of caution: save some room for dessert. They make their own cakes here about the size of a brick. There are many to choose from including orange, rum with mousse filling, chocolate, Christmas cake. and many more. Afterwards you may wish to walk back to the hotel or at least buy some Alka Seltzer.
We were sorry to have to leave the Lee Island Coast as we realized that there were many other things to discover. Like the shells that dot the beach at low tide, you can search out your own treasures and in so doing, create memories that will last you a lifetime.