From its multi-faceted historical roots as a Roman settlement and maritime port to its notoriety as the birthplace of Christopher Columbus and Nicolò Pagannini, Genoa is reinventing itself as a major European tourist destination.
This was my first trip to this beautiful Italian city on the edge of the Ligurian Sea that many have called the “Gateway to the Mediterranean.” Genoa’s symbolic old Lanterna lighthouse, still proudly stands guard in the harbor and serves as a focal point that can be seen from many points in the city.
Nestled between the sea and nearby mountains, Genoa serves as the anchor for the Italian Riviera. Part of the larger region of Liguria, this area forms a crescent of scenic towns, villages and rocky coves that extends 450 kilometers along the coast of the Mediterranean. In the 1990s, Genoa started undergoing a major transformation designed to increase tourism and culturally unite the ancient port area with the city. Under the direction of architect Renzo Piano, Genoa planned several large-scale projects for the 1992 celebration of the discovery of America.
Two new attractions have helped Genoa earn its designation as the “Cultural Capital of Europe for 2004.” Located on the waterfront, the Acuario di Genoa has exhibits that rival those anywhere in the world. This multi-story aquarium houses sharks, alligators, penguins, and more than 5,000 other specimens of marine life. More than 10 million people have visited this facility, the largest aquarium in Europe, from 1993-2003. The newly opened Galata Sea Museum was built in the Porto Antico (old port) as a tribute to the early mariners whose seafaring skills helped discover the New World. Spend a couple of pleasant hours touring interesting exhibits that include a full-sized replica of a 19th century schooner, over 500 period objects and products, the voyage of Christopher Columbus, and a look at early transatlantic travel. There are even artifacts from the doomed Luisitania ocean liner, including an actual piece of the deadly German torpedo that sank her.
Genoa is a city that reveals herself slowly to the traveler. It can’t be rushed or seen in one day. Here you will find over 100 medieval palaces camouflaged among newer homes and businesses. Narrow winding streets and tall vertical buildings form an intricate labyrinth that connects different sections of the city and serves as Genoa’s core. Along these corridors you will find hundreds of small shops including produce stands, bakeries, clothing and jewelry stores, and many small restaurants and bistros.
It is not uncommon to see many people looking upward as this is where much of Genoa’s treasured past lies. Amazingly, many medieval towers are still standing, hiding in plain sight between innocuous buildings and residences. Painted frescos from an earlier era adorn exterior plaster and are undergoing renovation as artisans recreate the colors and symbols of the past. Around every corner you can expect a surprise as religious statues and icons are inherently part of the local architecture gracing doorways, the sides of buildings and city squares.
One resident described Genoa’s food as a “paradise for vegetarians.” Indeed many restaurants and eateries serve healthy Mediterranean cuisine that includes fish, pasta with fresh pesto, mushrooms with olive oil, eggplant, pizza, focaccia, and of course, a variety of fine Italian wines. Be sure to sample what the locals eat and visit some neighborhood restaurants such as Trattoria Al Veliero and Ristaurant Saint Cyr. Take a pleasant side trip to the town of Recco, known as the gastronomic capital of Liguria. The cheese focaccia at daö Vittorio is fantastic and a must on your trip. The owners are friendly and hospitable and are proud of their long history that dates back to 1896.
If there is one thing that Italians seem to love, it’s gelato. Almost every street has at least one shop with its colorful confections on display. Even if you don’t like ice cream, the soft, creamy flavors are hard to resist: chocolate with nuts, pistachio, chestnut, lemon, and mango are but a few of the flavors that can be enjoyed as you wander the streets on a sunny, lazy afternoon.
There are at least 20 museums in Genoa alone. Typical of the period, many of the local buildings were once the homes of the aristocracy and housed great works of art. Among these were two palaces owned by the Brignole-Sale family (mid-17th century): the Galleria di Palazzo Rosso (red palace) and the Galleria di Palazzo Bianco (white palace), named for their colorful facades. Both of these buildings are beautifully decorated and contain works of art by Genoese and Flemish painters as well as original works by Reni, Guercinno and Van Dyck.
As in other parts of Europe, transportation to other interesting areas is readily available via train or automobile. Day trips can be planned for anywhere along the Italian Riviera including the picturesque fishing village of Bocadasse, the sea-side resort of Santa Margherita, Portofino, or one of Italy’s best preserved areas known as the Cinque Terra.
While Milan, Venice and Florence are better known as tourist destinations, Genoa is one city that has retained much of its old world charm and is just waiting to be discovered. Here you can stroll down stone-lined medieval streets; witness art through the ages at countless museums; visit the original dwelling of Christopher Columbus; and experience the sights, sounds and flavors that are a daily part of life in Genoa. With the efforts recently undertaken to introduce visitors to this cultural Mecca, this is one destination that should be high on your list if you are planning a trip to Italy.
Jolly Hotel Madison Towers, New York City
If you plan on departing from NYC, you can get an early start on your European experience by staying at the Jolly Hotel Madison Towers. Part of a European chain of Italian boutique hotels, this beautiful property has all the charm and ambiance of the 1920s with all of the modern conveniences you would expect from an elegant hotel.
Located just a few blocks from the Empire State Building, the Jolly Hotel features 243 guest rooms with imported Italian furniture, marble bathrooms, cable TV with HBO, modems, radios and mini bars. Even the lighting was unique with illumination emanating from under the raised bed. You can make a reservation by calling 212-802-0600 or by visiting their website at www.jollymadison.com.
Pocket Translators
If you don’t happen to speak Italian but want to be able to order a glass of water, ask for a recommendation of a good local restaurant or convert your dollars to Euros then consider the latest in electronic phrase books-- the Lingo 9 pocket translator with audio function. This little wonder, about the size of a Palm Pilot, will help you learn and communicate basic words (over 180,000) and phrases in nine languages with simple touch screen controls. I found it to be very helpful on my trip. They retail for around $200 and are available nationwide at leading specialty stores like Brookstone, Neiman Marcus and Lifestyle. (www.lingotravel.com)