Back in the Middle Ages shepherds in the Swiss Alps accidentally stumbled upon a new way to enjoy their Raclette cheese. They found that after a long day of tending their flocks, putting the cheese on a nearby stone next to a fire caused it to slowly melt, and they then enjoyed it with bread, pickled onions and potatoes. Later, during the 19th century, this newly discovered roasted cheese delicacy spread to other regions of Switzerland and eventually, to France.

Today, this same Alpine tradition has been recreated at the Empire Canyon Lodge at Deer Valley in Park City, Utah.

Every once in a while, my travels take me beyond the norm to an extraordinary dining experience and this one ranks toward the top of that small list.

Situated at 7,000 ft. toward the top of one of Deer Valley’s ski lifts, the chalet is surrounded by aspen groves and snow in the winter months. The restaurant serves upscale cafeteria-style fare during the day where hungry skiers can come for a bite after the slopes. Nighttime, however, is where the serving stations are reconfigured and the real magic begins. By wildly popular demand, Empire Canyon Lodge has increased their hours of operation from one night per week to three—hardly enough it seemed to me when word really gets out about what is going on up here on this mountain.

As my wife and I entered, we were seated in front of one of many large windows allowing us to watch the sunset bathe the snowy slopes in a warm orange glow. The white trunks of the aspens flecked with black offered a nice contrast but it wouldn’t be long before the green of spring changed the look of those trees and the mountainside as well. We watched as a family took a horse drawn sleigh ride, which is another little diversion that is a part of the ambiance.

The chalet has high ceilings and four massive flagstone fireplaces at least 20 feet high, each one with a roaring wood fire and manned by staff members. Their tasks include melting large pieces of Swiss Raclette or keeping watch over entire legs of lamb, pork or venison turning on a piece of string as the fire slowly roasts them to perfection.

The wait staff is as attentive and professional as you might expect in a restaurant of this quality. We were offered wine to match each of the dishes we selected. Part of the overall experience is visiting the various fireplaces and my first stop was the Swiss Raclette station. After being handed a warm plate of just melted cheese, I took it to a serving island where I selected accompaniments of potatoes, homemade baguettes, cured meats, and strawberry chutney. These all blended together in my mouth with a sweet and savory taste.

My next stop was in front of another fireplace with several iron pots filled with various stews such as veal and wild mushroom, venison sausage and chicken, and roasted root vegetables and a traditional Swiss Rösti (similar to a potato pancake). Back at my table, I savored every bite and commented to my wife that those shepherds knew how to eat!

I followed my sense of smell into another room where there were several large legs of lamb hanging from strings and slowly turning in front of another fire. The juices were dripping down into pots and just the look and smell of this was enough to make me hungry again. I added a side of greens with a Champagne and red onion vinaigrette along with some fresh baked ciabatta bread. The lamb is made using fresh herbs, lemon and garlic and was so tender that no knife was necessary. It was among the most flavorful meats I have ever tasted, including the lamb I was served nightly on my recent trip to Jordan.

With barely enough room for dessert, I headed to another table where I loaded up my plate with strawberries, pineapple, bananas, and pound cake. A server in front of the fourth fireplace asked me if I would like a fondue of chocolate, caramel or white chocolate with Grand Mariner for dipping. Such decisions! “All three,” I exclaimed. The combination of fresh fruits with the warm sweet confections just about did me in and all I could do at the end was sit back, relax and watch another family gliding by the window in a sleigh in the twilight.

Such a memorable culinary experience only comes a couple of times in a lifetime, I mused. But, I vowed to return and let the world know about this truly wonderful little Deer Valley Resort dining location.

The cost of everything, including the wine paring, is only $48 for adults and $24 for children, 11 years and under—quite reasonable I thought for a first class fine dining experience.

For more information or reservations call 435-645-6632.