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Eco-Adventure on Florida’s Space Coast
Story and Photos By Ron Stern

While most people are familiar with Cape Canaveral and the Kennedy Space Center, few know about the other treasures of the Space Coast…

It’s nine a.m. The sun feels good on my face as it peeks in and out of the clouds. My fellow journalists and I have picked out our kayaks, loaded our cameras and gear and pushed off from the shore at the Indian River Lagoon. Our guide is Laurilee Thompson, owner of the popular Dixie Crossroads Restaurant in Titusville and a one-woman tour de force who has made it her mission in life to help protect the pristine environment that makes up the 140,000 acres of the Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge.

Kennedy Space Center

Off in the distance I can see Shuttle Launch Pads 39A and B as well as the massive Vehicle Assembly Building that looms on the horizon. As we paddle our way towards Mullethead Island and its surrounding grass flats, cameras with telephoto lenses come out of watertight bags and start snapping away at more birds than I have ever seen in one location. Roseate Spoonbills, Blue Herons, Tri-colored Herons, Snowy Egrets, White Ibis, Brown Pelicans, and Double- crested Cormorants are all congregating on trees, on the shore and in the water. It is an incredible sight and those who have never seen any of these birds are awestruck.

As we drift in a little closer to shore and endeavor to become part of this timeless moment, the only sounds we hear are those made from our colorful friends. We linger for as long as possible trying hard not to disturb as most are watching us with a wary eye. After getting some great shots, we slowly paddle away and head toward Hanover Canal, a sheltered passageway between the Indian River and Mosquito Lagoon and part of the Intracoastal Waterway.

Scarlet Ibis

Along the way, Thompson tells me about her background as a longline fishing boat skipper similar to the one played by Mary Elizabeth Mastrantonio in the movie The Perfect Storm. After spending 10 years as commercial fisherwoman, she had an awakening and realized that her efforts were directly contributing to the declining fish populations over the years. She comments on the encroaching development in the area and how it is adversely affecting the local wildlife and destroying many of the state’s most prized natural resources. Together with her restaurant, she pioneered the massive Space Coast Birding and Wildlife Festival in 1997, which is now held every year in November.

As we creep quietly toward the boat dock we look for signs of manatees. Our eyes strain against the glare of the sun, looking for a nose poking just above the surface disguising the large body below. These gentle creatures are known to come right up to your kayak and nudge it with their snouts. Although we don’t find any on this day (too late in the season it seems as they seek out warmer waters), we do learn about stingrays, horseshoe crabs and mullet. About 30 yards away, one member of our group pulls a redfish from the waters and holds it up proudly for all to see.

Great Blue Heron

Along the banks, mangroves line the water’s edge as they silently do their work as part of the food chain. Microorganisms feed on the decaying leaves of the mangroves and provide food for shrimp, crabs, snails, and worms. In turn, the latter become food for many species of fish that are part of this habitat. The roots of the red mangroves also provide oxygen and eliminate the salt, providing a solid foundation for the ecosystem.

As we turn around and head back to shore, we see two bottle-nosed dolphins playing off the point. We pause and watch them as they surface and dive. “There goes a Kingfisher!” shouts an excited writer as he points toward the trees. As I round the final sandbar, an Osprey lands about 20 feet away on a large branch. I hurriedly fumble for my camera—click, click, click. As I peer through my lens, I can see the bird’s golden eyes, and even though my kayak bumps the rocky shore, the Osprey pays me no mind. I snap a few more shots and then just watch as he spreads out his wings and eventually flies away.

It has been an unforgettable experience. This was only one of two rivers that we had the chance to experience. The other one was the winding Econlockhatchee. But that is a story for another day. Since I grew up in the city, I never had the opportunity to see what sorts of natural sights could be found in Florida besides the usual tourist attractions. But now I understand the passion that Thompson felt as I found myself becoming part of her cause in telling others about the wonders and majesty of this undiscovered part of Florida’s Space Coast.

Resources:

Things to Do and See

Enchanted Forest Sanctuary
Part of the Environmentally Endangered Lands (EEL), this is a great place for hiking, wildlife observation and photography.
444 Columbia Blvd. Titusville
www.eelbrevard.com
321.264.5185

Kennedy Space Center
A highlight of any trip to this area, there are a variety of exhibits and tours. Some of these will take you past shuttle launch pads 39A and B as well as the Vehicle Assembly Building. You can even arrange to have lunch with an astronaut!
www.kennedyspacecenter.com

BCC Planetarium and Observatory
On a clear night you can see Saturn’s rings and Jupiter’s moons. The laser light shows are extraordinary.
www.brevardcc.edu/planet

American Police Hall of Fame
The first museum of its type in the nation, there are 10,000 artifacts dedicated to the field of law enforcement. There is also a firing range, and a memorial wall with the names of the fallen.
www.aphf.org

U.S. Space Walk of Fame
This free museum is the first of its kind to highlight the actual workers from the space program. It houses the world’s largest collection of memorabilia including actual space shuttle tires and a very interesting 3-D electronic model of Cape Canaveral.
www.apacewalkoffame.com

Warbird Air Museum
This museum offers a huge collection of aviation memorabilia, including military history. Outside you will find many of the aircraft from America’s past.
www.vacwarbirds.org

Local Knowledge Guided Nature Tours
Hire a local expert when you go out in the wild. Anthony Poponi has been doing this for over 10 years and can help you appreciate all that nature has to offer.
www.localknow.com

A Day Away Kayak Tours
Relax as you slowly meander for miles in your kayak along the Econlockhatchee River with your river host Rick Shafer of A Day Away Kayak Tours. This was one of the best parts of our trip.
www.nbbd.com/kayaktours

Grasshopper Airboat Tours
These boats are amazing as they glide across the lagoon giving you unparalleled views of the local wildlife. You will see alligators, turtles and birds as you explore the marshes of the St. Johns River.
www.airboatecotours.com

Space Coast Nature Tours
Hop aboard a pontoon boat with Captain Doug and his crew to view manatees and dolphins as you learn about the local ecosystem.
www.spacecoastnaturetours.com

Ace of Hearts Ranch
Take a horseback ride along the beach and end your day with a barbecue and campfire at Ace of Hearts. Their congenial hosts are some of the friendliest people in Florida.
www.aceofheartsranch.com

Getting There

Frontier Airlines
Frontier Airlines has direct flights from Denver to Orlando, which is only about 45 minutes from Titusville. Most of Frontier’s aircraft are modern and they offer on-line check-in and Direct TV. Unlike some airlines, Frontier still has some limited food service on board many flights.
www.frontierairlines.com

Where to Stay

Best Western Space Shuttle Inn
Located 30 minutes from Orlando and 5 minutes from the Kennedy Space Center, the Space Shuttle Inn has comfortable rooms and many special packages from which to choose including: Space Exploration and Splash, Before and After Cruise, and Family Fun. They have a popular on-site restaurant and are close to all local attractions.
www.spaceshuttleinn.com
1.800.523.7654

Where to Dine

Dixie Crossroads
Family owned since 1983, this is the place to go for seafood, including every type of shrimp. The favorite, however, is their rock shrimp that lures visitors from miles around. With a taste like lobster, these little temptations are caught fresh and will be brought to you broiled, fried or steamed. All entrees are served with corn fritters topped with powdered sugar. This one is worth the plane ride alone.
www.dixiecrossroads.com
Dixie Crossroads, 1475 Garden St., Titusville, FL
321.268.5000

Paul’s Smokehouse, Inc.
Home to some of the best smoked meats and barbeque I have ever tasted.
www.dixiecrossroads.com
Paul’s Smokehouse, Inc., 3665 S. Washington Ave., Titusville, FL
321.267.3663

Caffe Chocolat
A local favorite right in the heart of downtown. They have soup, sandwiches, fine chocolates, and gourmet coffee.
www.dixiecrossroads.com
Caffe Chocolat, 305 S. Washington Ave., Titusville, FL
321.267.1713

Kloiber’s Cobbler Eatery
You simply have to make your way to this eatery housed in a building constructed in the 1890s. Try their homemade peach, blueberry and blackberry cobblers and you’ll be packing some on ice in your suitcase.
www.dixiecrossroads.com
Kloiber’s Cobbler Eatery, 337 S. Washington Ave., Titusville, FL
321.383.0689

The Black Tulip
Fine dining for lunch and dinner with some innovative cuisine. Try the Tulip Crisp Roast Duckling—delicious!
www.dixiecrossroads.com
The Black Tulip, 207 Brevard Ave., Cocoa Village, FL
321.631.1133