Located at the tip of the Baja Peninsula lies a little sun-kissed piece of paradise known as Cabo San Lucas. This once sleepy fishing village with poor access has been slowly transformed into a top tourist destination featuring high-octane nightlife, fabulous beaches, great seafood, world-class fishing, championship golf, and an abundance of water sports.
The terrain in the Mexican state of Baja California Sur is basically arid such as you would find in Arizona. What makes this place so interesting is that this desert-type environment meets up with the waters of the cerulean blue Pacific Ocean as well as the emerald green of the Sea of Cortez. All these merge together into a spectacular group of rock formations known as Land’s End. This includes the famous El Arco (the arch), which features a large outcropping of rocks with a large hole in the middle. Lover’s Beach separates the ocean and the sea and is a popular place for honeymooners and photographers.
With a major airport only 26 miles away, Cabo is now accessible to the masses. I flew into San Jose del Cabo airport via America West Airlines. I have flown this airline before and always had a good experience. In fact, during the first six months of 2002, America West ranked first among all major airlines in on-time performance. With their hub located in Phoenix, trips to Cabo are effortless as I found out from the many Americans I ran across who flew America West from as far away as North Carolina.
On this trip I also decided to try out a new product known as the Airport Security Wallet developed by Warren of California. This handy accessory consists of a small leather wallet that hangs around your neck. In front, you can put your identification, and in the rear, there is space for boarding passes, passports, credit cards and cash. If you have ever fumbled through your belongings with baggage in tow, the security wallet is your solution. It allowed me to easily pass through security checkpoints without my usual “oh just a minute” while I rifled through all of my pockets to find my passport or photo I.D. This is also a great tool for avoiding the ever-present pickpockets that prey on vulnerable tourists.
In case you feel a little rusty on your Spanish and would like to converse with the locals, I came across a great little book called the Worldwide Multilingual Phrase Book. This contains some of the most important phrases that you are likely to use in Spanish as well as 39 other languages. This is just the thing for the world traveler.
Background
Cabo San Lucas sits at the southern end of an area generally known as Los Cabos, which means “the capes.” Here you will find the largest marina in Baja California Sur and the docking place for huge mega-liner cruise ships.
While Cabo San Lucas can be a fast-paced spot for round-the-clock fun, those wishing for a slightly slower pace might want to visit San Jose del Cabo located only six miles from the airport. San Jose is a quiet colonial village with many of the charms of old world Mexico. Historical buildings, fine dining, and bargain shopping are all waiting to be explored in San Jose del Cabo. I spent an afternoon just walking around the town, enjoying some ice cream (helado) at Bingo’s on Boulevard Mijares and taking in all the local culture. Along this new street you can also find something you could only find in Baja--a cactus museum. Hundreds of varieties of cactus can be seen in this new facility for only a nominal entrance fee.
Separating San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas is a 20-mile stretch of highway known as “the corridor.” Along this route you will find some great beaches, golf courses, and exclusive resort hotels with more popping up all the time. The popular Chileno Beach is located here midway between the two towns and is a great spot for swimming, snorkeling, or sunbathing.
Where to Stay
While there are many hotels on the corridor such as the Sheraton and Westin, I must confess a bias for the Pueblo Bonito properties. I had previously stayed in their two Mazatlan properties, Emerald Bay and Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan, and was thoroughly impressed. The owner of this growing family of hotels and resorts is Ernesto Coppel. If there is a formula for coming up with unique, theme-based, exquisite resorts, Mr. Coppel seems to have found it. At a time when many in the hotel industry are playing it safe, this entrepreneur seems to follow his instincts for creating a new brand of luxury hotels all over Mexico. There are three resorts in Cabo San Lucas including the Pueblo Bonito Los Cabos, Pueblo Bonito Rose and the newest Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach.
Pueblo Bonito Los Cabos is located on the Sea of Cortez adjacent to the Rose property. I loved the Mediterranean feel with white walls, deep blue tiles that extend to large roof domes, and flowered balconies. The grounds are appointed with palm trees and lush foliage, which conveys a peaceful feeling of tranquility. There are two restaurants on-site, Cilantro’s and Las Palomas, both of which are excellent. One of my favorite things to do is to sit in Cilantro’s with a cool drink right on the beach and watch all the activity taking place in the harbor. At dusk you can also see wonderful sunsets as the crimson sun sets behind El Arco.
Pueblo Bonito Rose is an all-suite resort property that sits on the beautiful El Medano beach overlooking the harbor and El Arco. Each of the Pueblo Bonito Hotels has its own particular feel and design and this one is no exception. Soft pastel rose colors adorn the exterior walls and colorful art, tile floors, and complimentary colors are found in the suites. The entire property is set in a Greco-Roman theme, and walking around the grounds you can stroll past marble busts of Roman emperors along with an impressive statue of King Neptune guarding the free-form swimming pool.
There are two restaurants on the property, an open-air restaurant called Mare Nostrum, meaning “our sea,” and an upscale international restaurant called L’Orangerie. I tried out the latter for a late-night dinner and the food and service could not have been better. I don’t usually order steak but our host suggested we try the filet mignon. I have to say that it was one of the most flavorful and tender pieces of beef I have ever had. Having a great meal overlooking the ocean in the warm night air is hard to beat and I strongly recommend L’Orangerie.
If you enjoy total relaxation and getting pampered, then do try the Spa at Rose, unquestionably the most exclusive spa in Los Cabos. Here you can melt your troubles away with one of their many treatments. I opted for the Swedish massage, and I was told to show up about 30 minutes prior to my session. I was informed that I should first use the standing hyrdroshower that had about nine nozzles allowing every part of my body to be sprayed by warm water. That was the beginning of my journey into ecstasy. Next, I slipped into a large Jacuzzi-type tub that also had a rock waterfall. After about 10 minutes, I took a dip in the cold-water bath and then back into the hot water. After that, I went to a relaxation room that had low light, restful music, and some iced drinking water while I waited for my masseuse. What can I say? After another hour of having my tight muscles massaged from my neck to my feet by Francis, I felt totally reborn. Whether you want a facial, pedicure, hydrotherapy, or even the chance to work out with their state-of-the-art equipment, you will love the Spa at Rose.
Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach is the newest of the Cabo San Lucas properties. Unlike the other two resorts, Sunset Beach is located just outside of town in a new area dubbed Cabo Pacifica. Located on fifty acres against a hillside, this unique property incorporates a hacienda style of architecture amidst fountains, waterfalls, and tropical landscaping, all of which afford a magnificent view of the ocean.
One of the more unusual things about Sunset is that they use golf carts to transport guests throughout the winding steep pathways. I found this very easy to use by simply calling the lobby and saying that I needed to go to the pool. After a minute or two, my own personal chauffeur was at my door waiting to take me for a dip. The rooms are tastefully decorated with old and new style elements like tile and marble along with wrought iron lamp fixtures and rich cedar accessories.
The La Nao Restaurant was named after the Spanish galleons that carried treasures from the Philippines to Mexico and Spain, and the interior reflects much of the style of that period. High-beamed ceilings, polished marble floors, statues, and cedar fixtures all blend seamlessly at La Nao. They have won awards for their food and the only problem I had was over-indulging.
Vacation ownership is also available at Sunset Beach and Rose, and I was amazed at how fast these units are selling. I spoke to several couples that enjoyed the Pueblo Bonito properties so much that they bought a vacation package at each one. Many commented that they felt that the Pueblo Bonito resorts were among the finest in the world. New properties are being planned for Cabo Pacifica in 2004 that will be located adjacent to Sunset Beach. This will feature 180 deluxe suites and 20 one-bedroom suites, all of which will come with great views. Another resort property will be built in 2003 in Puerto Vallarta.
Things to see and do
Cabo San Lucas truly has something for everyone. For some, staying at the hotel, lounging by the pool, and enjoying most of their meals at the in-house restaurant will be appealing. To others, exploring all that the town has to offer is where it’s at.
If you like to shop for things like T-shirts, Mexican curios, and knickknacks, then you can find these on just about every corner. The marina is centrally located around the downtown area, and you can take your pick from any number of shops or sidewalk vendors. Remember also that many times it is in your best interest to bargain. You might be sorry you bought something at one shop when you see it offered for half that amount down the street.
I found a little out of the way place that most tourists never get to see. It is called the Artesian Market and it is a short five-minute drive from Pueblo Bonito Rose. This is where many of the locals shop for bargains in pottery, glassware, and furniture, and it is well worth the visit. I came away with what I thought was a deal--four green drinking glasses for around $10.
There are no less than eight golf courses in the corridor area, many of which are adjacent to resort hotels. The largest of these is the Palmilla Golf Club with 27 holes and described as the “Mexican version of Pebble Beach.” The high season for golf courses in Cabo runs October through June during which greens’ fees run from $175-250. During other times of the year, the prices range from $120-150, which includes a golf cart.
If you like water sports, then you will be in heaven. Cabo is known as the marlin capital of the world due to the abundance of this game fish in these waters. Any number of guides will try and ply your business on the streets in little cubicles. “Hey, do you like to fish?” is a phrase you are likely to hear more than you would like. Check out several for their pricing before you make a decision.
There are also many different options for snorkeling and diving. I tried the Cabo Expeditions Zodiac Rafting located in the marina area. What appealed to me was that they used small rubber boats that navigate shallow water and the fact that they will take you to the three most popular beach snorkel locations in one tour. This includes Santa Maria Bay, Chileno Bay, and Lover’s Beach. I was curious about Lover’s Beach, and our guide pointed to a small cave and said laughing, “Two go in, three come out…nine months later.” During my time on the tour, I got to see an octopus, an eel, and of course myriad brightly colored fish. One word of caution: Bring some sunscreen so that you don’t end up with a third degree burn on your back.
Another popular thing to do is take an ATV tour. There are several tours and operators to choose from and I picked the Motosol Old Lighthouse Tour. After you get the hang of your ATV, they take you single file down some back dusty roads that end up at the Sand Dunes of Cabo San Lucas. These are not little mounds of sand but large and extensive mini-mountains. I had never been on an ATV before but these machines seemed like they would crawl up the side of a wall. At the top of the dunes are several old lighthouses that offer great views. Blasting up and down these hills was really a kick as was coming back at night with only the headlights to illuminate the trails.
Of course, there are many other things to do in Cabo. There is a ton of nightlife, dancing, and eateries all over the place. Many have interesting names brilliantly lit up in neon like a Las Vegas casino. You can spend your time at any number of lively places like Squid Roe, The Giggling Marlin or Cannery Row.
Just off the main boulevard behind the Hard Rock Café is a newcomer to the restaurant scene called Blue Agave. As I discovered, this eatery served food at fair prices with nothing being pre-cooked. This is also the only place in Cabo that specializes in martinis. I was told that their unique watermelon martini was one of their best sellers. Tasting it I could see why. It sort of reminded me of a strawberry margarita but with its own distinctive flavor. For the entrée, I had the mahi mahi filet with pineapple and pecan sauce. The fish was tender and flavorful with just the right amount of seasoning. If you like chocolate, try the white and black chocolate mousse cake for desert. It was fantastic. I give Blue Agave four out of five smiles for its food, ambiance, and distinctive cocktails.
Cabo San Lucas is one of those places that is a great getaway for three to four days or a week or two. But, as many Americans and Canadians have discovered, her charms may go to work on you and make you start thinking about a longer stay or purchasing a vacation ownership package. Maybe it’s the sun or the sea, the friendliness of the people, or the inviting culture of Mexico, but return you will as you find your own reasons for loving this city on the tip of Baja.